Trekking in Nepal
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Manaslu,Tilicho Pass & Upper Mustang Trek
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Duration
47 Nights/ 48 Days |
Places
Covered
Kathmandu - Syabru Besi - Langtang village -
Kyangjin Gompa - Kyangjin - Thulo Syabru - Sing
Gompa - Gosainkund - Chandanbari - Dhunche - Kathmandu |
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DURATION |
CATEGORY |
GRADE |
MAXIMUM
ALTITUDE |
OVERNIGHT |
48 DAYS
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Tents/Tea
House |
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5545m above
sea level |
In Tents/Tea
House |
TREK OVIERVIEW: You can join the Manaslu section (High Route
Around Manaslu) or the Mustang section (Last Nomads of Mustang)
OR combine both these treks with the Tilicho crossing which
is this epic GHT(Great Himalayan Trail) itinerary.
The Gorhka start to this trek is not strictly the GHT, but is
much more scenic than the standard Arughat route. If anyone
wants to start from the Langtang region and meet in Jagat for
the real GHT route from Shyabru Besi to Kagbeni please talk
with us. It can be arranged.
Finally, the Mustang section of this trek is a side trip from
the GHT (possibly the most scenic side trip there is) and caters
to people already booked.
Day 1 - Arrive at Kathmandu International Airport.
Your Bhutanese representative from Raven Tours and Treks will
greet you on arrival and drive you to the hotel where you will
be staying.
Later Sightseeing tour of Swayambunth & Kathmandu Durbar
Square.
Swayambunath is one of the world's most glorious Buddhist Chaitya.
It is said to be 2000 years old. Painted on the foursides of
the spdire bases are the all seeing eyes of Lord Buddha. It
is three kilometeres west of Kathmandu city and is situated
on a hillock about 77 m. above the level of the Kathmandu Valley.
Kahmandu Durbar Square is the historic seat of ty. The Durbar
Square, with its old temples and places, epitomizes the religious
and cultural life of the people. It is here that Kings of Nepal
are crowned and their coronations solemnized. Interesting things
to seek here are; Taleju Temple built by King Mahendra Malla
in 1549 A.D., Kal Bhairav, the God of destruction, Nautalle
Durbar, Coronation Nasal Chowk, the Gaddi Baithak, the statue
of King Pratap Malla, the Big Bell, Drum and the Jagannath Temple.In
the evening welcome meal with Nepali traditional dance.
Later in the evening you will be taken to the typical Nepali
restaurant (Bhojan Grihia) for dinner and will be hosting traditional
dances.
Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day 2 - In Kathmandu
After breakfast proceed for city tour of Kathmandu visiting
Pashupatinath and Boudhanath.
Pashupatinath Temple is situated 5 km east of Kathmandu,
the temple of Lord Shiva, Pathupatinath with two tierd golden
roof and silver doors is considered one of the holiest shrines
of Hindus.
The stupa of Boudhanath lies 8kms east of Kathmandu.
This ancient colossal stupa is one of the biggest in the world
and the center of Buddhism in the world. It was listed in the
UNESCO Heritage Monument in 1979.
Later proceed for city tour of Kathmandu visiting Patan Square,
complex of palaces, courtyard and temples, built between
the 12th and 18th centuries, use to be the seat of the ancient
Malla kings of Kathmandu.
Later stroll around the city of Thamel.
Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day 3 - Drive to Gorkha. Trek to camp above Gorkha Fort 1060m
We're up early for our scenic six-hour drive from Kathmandu
to the historic town of Gorkha, once the capital of a massive
kingdom which included parts of lower Tibet, with it's old 'durbar',
or King's palace, a mix of Buddhist and Hindu deities, perched
high up in the surrounding hillsides and reached by worn stone
steps. After organizing the gear and loads with the porters,
we head up to our first night's campsite above the Gorkha Fort,
stopping en route to visit this well-maintained site, home of
the powerful Gorkha royalty until about a century ago. We can
see the crew setting up camp from the top of the fort; once
at camp, we will introduce you to our 'Kamzang Style' dining
tent and your personal Big Agnes or Marmot tents.
Day 4 - Trek to Arkhol 570m
We wake to misty mountain views in the morning; have a look
over fresh coffee and chai! The middle hills of Nepal are timeless,
and we trek for the first two days through classic middle hills
scenery; rolling, forested hills, snaking rivers with rounded
rock strewn on the beaches, local fishermen casting their nets,
iridescent rice fields, papaya, lemon and orange trees, water
buffalos, thatched huts and local 'bhattis' (Nepali tea-houses)
along the trail for a quick dal bhat or cup of chai.
We have a leisurely seven hour day for our first real day of
trekking, with many locals selling bananas and papayas en route
(bring small change). We'll meet many colorful Gurung and Hindu
local en route, an will have time to stop at the many traditional
villages along the way. We start by descending gradually on
stone slab steps to scattered tea-houses, vivid green rice paddies
and several small, densely populated village with a school right
on the trail, the kids in the schools reciting their lessons.
The next descent is very steep and slippery, a long drop down
to a small bridge which leads us past more flooded rice-paddies
to a dirt road which we walk along for half an hour before reaching
a small cluster of tea-houses where we'll stop for a cup of
tea. A quarter of an hour later, in the heat of the day, we
reach a local bhatti, continue on past more terraced fields
and through a small village and then climb up to a point overlooking
a magnificent S bend in the Daraundi Khola far below. We descend
back to the river and stop at a much needed swimming hole and
rocky beach where we cool down and have our packed lunch. About
10 minutes past this stop is a long bridge where we can watch
locals swimming and catching fish below us, and then past the
village on the other side where cold cokes are available we
cross a rickety, swaying, wooden bridge, perhaps the longest
in the region. Ekle Sangu is the dingy village on this side
of the river; there is a vegetable market just above the village
where we will pick up a few supplies for dinner. Another hour
and a half of dirt-road trekking on the left bank of the river
and again through several small hamlets and bhattis brings us
to a small, metal bridge over a small, intersecting bridge.
We cross, hike another half an hour and reach our lovely campsite
along the beach on the Daraundi River just below the small village
of Arkhol.
Jump in the river and then enjoy our first mountain sunset.
The village kids with surely be by to see what's happening,
perhaps carry a basket of beer. Take advantage of a chance for
a sun-downer while we're still low in altitude!
Day 5 - Trek to Kalibote (Phedi) 800m
A continuation of yesterday's lovely scenery and a six hour
day, we hike up to Arkhol village on stone steps built into
the paddies and continue through the long stretch of main Arkhol
lined with small shops. We continue though bustling Gurung villages
with local tea-houses, some selling a delicious fish curry,
contour around rice paddies and then climb high on a steep trail
being rewarded by expansive views up and down the misty river
valley. We descend again, often following a newly-built dirt
road, and cross several swaying suspension bridges spanning
the Daraundi Khola before stopping for lunch at a rocky river
beach where we can jump in to cool off (many of the village
kids will be swimming, too). We hike past a high waterfall which
tumbles to the trail (shower?) and climb up and down steeply
a few times to reach our camp at Kalibote in the early afternoon.
Tomorrow we have a steep climb ahead of us, and this is the
last campsite before the (large) hill. Head down to the river
and perch yourselves on the smooth river rocks next to the wonderful
swimming hole for a wash after our hot day. The staff might
even pick up some small fish for dinner ...
Day 6 - Trek to Barpak 1915m
Have a good breakfast this morning; we head off early for our
steep, long climb up to the wonderful village of Barpak, situated
perfectly on a green ridge overlooking the misty valley below.
There is a new road being built up to Barpak (started in 2009)
and we have to traverse this dirt road a few times as we climb
through the dense forested hillside filled with rhododendrons
and other large, leafy trees. Along the way we can stop for
a break at the Gurung memorial 'chautaras' or rest stops. These
are specific to the Gurung people, who's religion is Buddhist
with an animist/shamanistic bent. It should take us under four
hours to get to camp, with the lower village and lively school
en route. We contour around wheat fields, climbing gently, to
reach the village and our campsite. There is a small shop just
below our camp where you'll be able to find a cold beer ...
Barpak is a large, Ghale (royalty) Gurung village, extremely
clean, with a weekly market, wide alleys between the houses,
grain and vegetables drying outside on the patios, several shops,
viewpoints and flowers planted along the decks of these Gurung
houses. Many of its men joined the Ghurkha Army, returned to
Barpak with new wealth, and have built lovely houses. We arrive
in time for lunch, and have the afternoon to wander the narrow
streets of the village, a photographers paradise. The villagers
often organize 'cultural shows', the proceeds of which go to
improving the village, so we might be treated to one in the
early evening.
Across the steep valley the hillsides are peppered with other
terraced villages. We are towered over by Bauddhi Himal, a high,
snow-capped peak which makes for wonderful sunrise and sunset
photos ...
Day 7 - Trek to Laprak 2200m
Another early start and a picturesque climb, with Bauddhi Himal
providing a spectacular back-drop to the sprawling, scenic Barpak
as we ascend the narrow ridge; we take the small, stone trail
to the right of the main trail after an hour or so, and a total
of three hours later, we reach the ridge, officially a pass,
which separates Laprak and Barpak, and are rewarded with panoramic
mountain views (along with herds of sheep grazing on the grassy
hillsides) from the peak. Bauddhi Himal, Shringi Himal, Ganesh
Himal and the Langtang range all span the horizon; a truly breath-taking
view! The rhododendrons are blooming brilliantly, in many hues
of pink and red, around us, providing great photographs with
the snow-peaks in back! Bring a wind jacket as the clouds often
move quickly up to this ridge, and it gets cold quickly.
Another steep hour or two of trekking brings us down to Laprak,
another large Gurung village of five hundred houses, perhaps
not quite as scenic as Barpak but just as interesting. The Maoists
used to stay in this village, and the villagers often offer
some friendly indoctrination. We camp in the only campsite around,
at the school in the upper section of the village, with several
tea-houses nearby. Again, we have the afternoon free to explore
the village; take a walk down the hill and a look into some
of the houses, all with symbolic murals on the mud-brick walls.
The villagers are friendly, and there is lots to explore in
Laprak's winding maze of lanes.
Day 8 - Trek to Korlebesi 875m
A classic Nepali trekking day of eight hours, all spectacular
but a bit hard on the knees! We descend through Laprak's maze
of village paths, the villagers on their decks with their wheat,
barley and buckwheat laid out on straw mats, and descend steeply
to their corn, wheat and barley fields below the village, and
then to the river. After crossing a very rickety suspension
bridge, we climb equally steeply back up, past terraced fields
of pink sorghum and rice. We contour around several hillsides
on a narrow trail, barely visible at times, up to a small chorten
just below the village of Singla. From here, the going is easy,
and we enjoy the views of the Manaslu Himal, Kutang Himal and
Shringi Himal to the north as we walk down through more terraced
fields and papaya trees, through the Gurung village of Korla,
and then down along a narrow, winding trail to Korlebesi on
the Buri Gandaki river. Take care as the rocky steps just before
the long suspension bridge to Korlebesi are treacherous! Look
out for the local women weaving straw mats in the village. Our
campsite is just below the village, next to a small tributary
stream, again providing great swimming holes. We will probably
get a visit in the evening from this village's cultural ambassadors,
and perhaps have another show ...
Day 9 - Trek to Jagat 1370m
A five hour day today, starting with an hour of walking along
the river, by tobacco and buckwheat fields, past rocks washed
smooth by the river, often climbing up stone steps, to reach
the hot springs in the centre of the small, terraced village
of Tatopani. We have plenty of time to soak our grungy bodies
in the gushing hot water, and then perhaps go for a swim in
the icy river below, drying off on the wonderful river-side
beach. A gentle climb through the woods past some spectacular
waterfalls, across an old, wooden suspension bridge and through
a short section of forest path and we reach Dobhan. Above Dobhan,
the Buri Gandaki descends in an impressive series of steep rapids.
Here, our trail climbs high above the river to descend through
what appears to be a huge gateway into some secret place; in
front the valley widens, the river calms, and we stop for lunch
at another swimming spot on the river. An easy hour along the
right banks of the river brings us to a long, new suspension
bridge after which we climb high on neat stone steps before
entering our campsite in lower Jagat, the entrance to the Manaslu
park. It is worth wandering around this beautiful, paved village,
where proud villagers have recorded how much they contributed
to these paving schemes. Our campsite is impressively clean
and grassy, with cold beers available at the shop next door.
Day 10 - Trek to Philim 1570m
We have a short day of less than three hours today, so enjoy
it! After descending a long series of stone steps back down
to the river from Jagat, we climb on wonderful stone steps along
a terraced hill-side to the small hamlet of Saguleri, from where
we can see the impressive Shringi Himal, 7187 meters high. We
pass through the charming, paved village of Sirdibas, where
the local children sell oranges in the Autumn. We pass the local
water-mill, soon afterwards crossing the river again on a long,
high suspension bridge at Gata Khola, the path splits, with
the right-hand branch heading off towards the Ganesh Himal.
Our route continues upstream, and again we have a steep climb
to reach Philim and its Japanese sponsored school. We arrive
at our grassy campsite in time for lunch, and have the afternoon
free to wash at the darapani (tap) across the path from camp,
explore the interesting upper village and gompa, or sit and
enjoy the afternoon at camp.
The upper village's Gurung inhabitants are very poor, far from
a health station, and we often spend the afternoon tending to
wounds and sick villagers ...
Day 11 - Deng 1865m
Leaving along the main, paved trail out of Philim below the
upper village we hike through corn and millet fields and soon
pass Ekle Bhatti (which means one tea-house), and trek on a
high, beautiful trail through a narrow, dramatic gorge section
with towering walls, past a thundering waterfall just above
us on the right of the trail. Continuing on this high, dramatic
trail we pass the small teahouses at Thangurmu and cross the
river, now the Buri Gandaki, at a narrow section of the gorge
on a new suspension bridge. This bridge sits at the intersection
to Tsum valley to our right, a remote valley in the Manaslu
region leading to Tibet. The Buri Gandaki veers to go from east
to west from north to south from here, and we've crossed the
main Himalayan range (somehow). We then ascend gradually along
a wide hillside through an open pine forest, and then cross
the river two more times in the next two hours on small, very
badly maintained bridges, Nepali style. As we climb, look back
for views of Ganesh Himal lV in back of us. After trekking through
dense woods of rhododendrons, bamboo and many flowers for over
an hour, we pass the cold campsite of Pewa on the river, and
after another hour we leave the gorge and climb briefly to the
small village of Deng, approximately five hour of trekking past
this morning's campsite. Deng is the start of the lower Nubri
region called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan
but speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri
where the people are pure Tibetans. The Kutang dialect, called
'kukay', is a mix of Tibeto-Burman and Gurung. We have views
of Lumbo Himal to the rear, as well as Lapuchen and Dwijen Himals.
We camp just below the village, and get fresh greens from the
family that owns the land. It's worth a visit to the upper floor
of their house above us, perhaps for a glass of local 'chang',
or Tibetan beer, and for a chat around the hearth. It starts
to feel like a piece of old Tibet at last!
Day 12 - Trek to Namrung 2540m
The valley is still steep-sided and impressive as we leave camp
in the morning, heading for another bridge across the river.
We switchback steeply up to the small, poor village of Rana,
where the women usually have their looms out. Soon after, after
more climbing through lovely woods of pine and crossing a small
bridge, we reach Bihi Phedi, where there is a good shop and
views of Kutang Himal, and start to see mani stones (prayers
etched onto wayside rocks, particularly mani stones with pictures
of gods and goddesses), a sure sign that we are entering another
of the tiny Tibetan footholds that mark the high Himalayan places.
We have three or four hours of trekking ahead of us, twice crossing
the large Bhuri Gandaki and twice over smaller tributary streams,
staying mostly high with many ascents and descents as we walk
through the gorge, all the time enjoying spectacular views.
Eventually we reach Ghap, where the elaborate mani walls with
Buddhas in several asanas were carved by the famous Bihi stone-carvers.
The egg-shells strung above the local 'tea-house' doors in Ghap
prevent the evil spirits from entering the house.
*** We don't camp at Ghap this year, but across the Bhuri Gandaki
and up steeply up for 45 minutes is the village of Chaak, where
the son of the tea-house owner in Ghap lives with his family.
There is a small, deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style
here is distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist
regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks
here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind
into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri. Across
the river are great views of the village of Prok perched on
the plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you
can trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi
Himal base camp. A fire recently destroyed the gompa at Kwak.
Soon after leaving Ghap, we ascend for an hour through a dense,
cool forest of fir, rhododendron, bamboo and oaks, crossing
the Buri Gandaki once on a wooden bridge, and continue to climb
on smooth, stone steps. We might spot Danphe, the national bird
of Nepal, or grey Languor monkeys with white faces along the
trail. As we gain altitude, we reach alpine territory and are
treated to increasingly broad mountain views. We eventually
reach Namrung, the first village in Nubri, a region of purely
Tibetan inhabitants speaking a dialect of western Tibet. We
eventually arrive at Namrung, at 2540 meters, where we will
set up camp in a grassy site above a Tibetan-owned lodge.
Day 13 - Trek to Lho 3180m
Today is a wonderful trekking day, as usual! Above Namrung,
the valley opens out and there are extensive pastures and bear
watches to guard them (note the bamboo structures in the fields).
A few hours later, we reach the village of Lihi at 2840 meters,
a substantial altitude gain. Lihi houses two old gompas, and
is spread along the trail with its billowing fields of barley,
guarded by more bear watches. Lihi is known for its unusual
architecture; apartment-like units with a common roof. From
Lihi, you can head east to the newly opened village of Hinang,
which also has an important gompa. We are climbing climb gently
now and views of Ngadi Himal and Manaslu north open up in front
of us. Soon we cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda
Glaciers and reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at
3000m. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of the house,
and across the river to the ruins of an old Tibetan fort or
gompa-hermitage. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular,
and further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to breath-taking
views of Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon!
We set up camp in Lho, a lively, sprawling village adorned with
many prayer flags, in the yard of a small lodge just above the
new chorten that was built in 2009. Sunset and sunrise from
the campsite are wonderful, and the small gompa just below our
campsite worth a visit. There is also a new gompa up the hill,
next to the phone, so if you want to call home this is your
chance. From camp, we have breathtaking views of Manaslu and
Manaslu north.
Day 14 - Trek to Sama Gaon (Ro) 3525m
Walking through the upper reaches of Lho, with the snowy peaks
of Manaslu ahead of us in the distance, we pass the new gompa
and then ascend through light forests next to a small river
to reach the high, idyllic Tibetan settlement of Shayla, where
the villagers are often out in the fields. Amazing mountain
panoramas from here!
*** There is a great alternative route to Hong Sangbu Gompa
en route to Shayla. The gompa is near Musithang Kharka, and
has an entrance kane and a long mani wall.
We have a few hours of trekking through classic alpine scenery,
crossing two small bridges over glacial streams. Our trail leads
us past Tibet grazing settlements, the trail to Pung Gyan Gompa
off to the left, several doksas, or seasonal settlements and
eventually past checkered fields of barley and potato to Sama
Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it.
Sama Gaon sits in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading
to the high peaks, with mani walls, a small gompa and tightly
packed rows of houses at the lower reaches of village, and the
large gompa at the upper reaches. The people settled here from
Tibet over 500 years ago, and the two gompas date from this
time, both having unique architecture and built of wood. The
Tibetan villages in this region of Manaslu have distinctive
entrance gates (kanes), and they maintain an active trade with
their co-religionists in Tibet over several high passes nearby
(notice the Chinese brandy and beer for sale in the small shops).
If the weather is good, you will see the village women weaving
wool (baal) from Tibet into gowns - which are then traded back
to Tibet. Taxes were actually paid to the Dzongka Dzong (fortress)
at the border of Tibet, a few days walk from Sama Gaon, as late
as the 1940's until it was taken over by the Gorkhas in the
late 19th century. Later, after 1959, the region was home to
Tibetan guerrillas, and thus closed to trekking until 1992.
Take the afternoon to hike up to the old gompa settlement above
town, and to wander the streets of the fascinating Sama Gaon
village ...
Day 15 - Sama Gaon
We have a rest day in Sama Gaon to explore the village and gompas;
a little piece of old Tibet! This is also an extra day in case
anyone is having trouble acclimatizing ...
A great excursion is a hike to (or towards) Manaslu Base Camp,
just north and off to the left of the trail leaving Sama Gaon,
where we'll have stunning views of the lake, glacier and valley.
This will take most of the day, so we'll pack a lunch for anyone
wanting to go. Another option is a long day-hike up to Pung
Gyan Gompa, at 3870 meters, a stunning walk up an often icy
and slippery trail along the Numla Khola and the Pung Gyan glacier
past Tibetan 'kharkas' or seasonal herding settlements, with
unbeatable views of Manaslu near the gompa. The gompa was mostly
destroyed by an avalanche in 1953, and recently rebuilt. The
complex includes a cave gompa as well, which affords even better
views of the valley.
Day 16 - Trek to Samdo 3850m
Another day of incredible mountain views, past craggy woods
of Himalayan Birch, during the walk up to Samdo, an easy three
hours away. En route we cross the river on a small bridge and
river rocks, continue along the left side of the long mani walls
at Kermo Kharka, and soon afterwards spot the entrance chorten
of Samdo high on a bluff. We descend back to the Bhuri Gandaki
and cross a small bridge before another short climb to the 'kane'
entrance of Samdo.
The villagers of Samdo came across the border from the village
of Riu in Tibet after 1959 and built their new village here,
at their old herding settlement. Like the people of Ro, Samdo
inhabitants are Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king
of Jumla over 500 years ago; but, unlike the Ro people, they
only claimed their land after the Chinese takeover in the early
1950s. Since then they have established a trade with China and
India, marketing among other things, the aphrodisiac root that
grows in the region. We'll see if we can get an invitation into
a local house for chang (Tibetan barley beer), salt-butter tea
and perhaps a bit of carpets or textile shopping. Get out and
take a walk around the village, where the inhabitants live an
essentially Tibetan lifestyle, herding their yaks, sheep and
goats, training their horses and planting barley. There is a
small gompa in a house mid-village which we visited in previous
years, a puja being held by several of the reincarnated lamas
living in Samdo.
We also have a strong connection to a family in Samdo which
Clint Rogers, who wrote the book about Samdo that we have in
our library, lived with years ago. We helped the wife, Nima
Dikki, get over her four-year post-partum depression, and know
her husband Tsewang Gyurme and their kids well. We will stop
in for a visit and to check to see how Nima Dikki is doing,
a rare chance to see how a real Samdo family exists.
We're high, and the wind can be chilling in the evenings, so
tuck into the little tea-house next door to our campsite for
a cup of salt-butter tea to warm you up!
Day 17 - Samdo
Another rest and acclimatization day in this wonderful spot
below Manaslu, which towers above us. We recommend a hike up
the valley directly in back of Samdo, with Samdo Ri behind it,
heading towards one of their trading passes to Tibet, for amazing
mountain panoramas including an in-your-face view of Manaslu
itself. From left to right: Simrang Himal, Himal Chuli, Ngadi
Himal, Manaslu, Manaslu North and Larkye Peak. To the right
of the Larkye La which is just in front of us as we look northwest,
we can see Cheo Himal and possibly Kang Guru behind the pass.
En route up and down to these viewpoints we'll pass many lovely,
slated herding settlements, called doksas, now empty. We might
also see more Danphe as they crash through the underbrush, and
probably will see Lammergeyer and Himalayan Griffin soaring
high above us. The prayer flags strung up on a distant hill,
sending messages out into the Himalaya, make a good stopping
point before returning to lively Samdo.
A longer option for the day is a trip to the Gya La ('large
pass') to the north of Samdo, a more frequently used trading
route to Tibet. where the border markers at the top says 'China,
1962.' We will probably share the trail with groups of Samdo
residents, carrying timbers over the border to Tibet. True High
Asia, and a long day!
Day 18 - Trek to Dharamsala High Camp (Larkya Phedi) 4460m
We leave Samdo on the old trade route towards Tibet (Sherpas
from the Khumbu region used to bring their yaks into Tibet and
then across the Larkya La down into Nubri on their extensive
trade-circuit in years past), cross a small bridge, and climb
through the ruins of Larkya Bazaar across from Larkya Glacier
which tumbles down from Manaslu North. The bazaar was one of
the trade markets, a seasonal tented camp, that flourished years
ago. After three to four hours of climbing past more glaciers,
through open plateaus of dwarf rhododendron and juniper bushes,
with increasingly awe-inspiring panoramas, we come to the campsite
at Dharamsala, the high camp for the Larkya La pass. We'll have
lunch here while the staff sets up camp and gaze out at the
views. You'll really feel the altitude and the cold here, so
enjoy a more leisurely afternoon and keep warm. We're in blue
sheep territory, so keep an eye out for herds of them grazing
nearby on the barren hill-sides. We'll have an early dinner
in preparation for our pass crossing tomorrow ...
Day 19 - Cross Larkya La (5140m) to Bimtang 3590m
Thank God for fresh-brewed coffee; it's dark and cold as we
pack up our bags and tents in the morning and head off on our
eight to nine our trek! After a short climb above the campsite,
we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the Larkya
Glaciers where we have views of Cho Danda, Ganesh Himal l to
the east and then of Larkya Peak (6250m). We continue across
the moraines of the glacier and past frozen lakes, often through
the snow, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only
in the last section to the pass, which should take us about
four hours to crest. If there is fresh snow, we may see snow
leopard prints from the evening before; it's also blue sheep,
pika, marmot and Tibetan snow-cock territory.
The views from the top of the pass are wonderful; a mountain
panorama of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru, Gyagi Kung
and the huge Annapurna II, equally stunning from both sides
of our double pass. After hanging our Tibetan prayer flags and
yelling 'Ki ki so so lha gyalo' (may the Gods be victorious),
get ready for a steep, often slippery drop to a trail following
the glacial moraine. Bring your trekking poles, and 'yak tracks'!
We'll lunch below the pass on smooth rocks before continuing
the descent, still three hours to go to our campsite. A boulder-strewn
descent brings us, finally, to Bimtang, meaning 'Plain of Sand'
where the Samdo people keep their animals. The three sisters
of the 'Three Sisters Hotel' are on hand with chilled beer,
and the evening clouds gather and turn pink behind the surrounding
peaks. It's all worthwhile now ...
Day 20 - Trek to Tilje 2300m
A chilly but beautiful morning, as the sun hits the peaks around
us long before the campsite. After leaving the grazing fields
of Bimtang, we cross a boulder-strewn river, which recently
flooded, on a wooden bridge and head down, down through open
forests of brilliantly blooming rhododendron, past the doksas
below Bimtang, passing Samdo-pa returning from shopping with
their loaded horses. We'll lunch at a small tea-house, and then
continue along the rocky river-bed and sliding hill-sides to
several small, green villages, a sign that we've reached lower
altitudes. Eventually, after a somewhat long but very scenic
day, we reach the large village of Tilje, and our campsite in
the lower section. The inhabitants are a mix of Manangis (of
Tibetan descent) and Chettris (Hindus), so have a unique architecture
and culture, and eat a mix foods - dal bhat, buckwheat dhiro,
tsampa and Tibetan salt-tea. The gorge ahead marks the land
of apple pie, cold beers and hot showers, otherwise known as
the Annapurna Circuit.
Day 21 - Trek to Chame
Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass
through Danagyu before coming to a thundering waterfall, where
we turn left and head up the high trail to Koto. After an hour
of lovely, open forests, we reach a clearing at the top of the
trail and a charming Tibetan teahouse where we will stop for
a break. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu.
An hour away is the wonderful Gurung village of Timang, where
the villagers might be harvesting their crops of buckwheat or
stuffing local sausages. Heading back down to the village of
Koto Qupar, our base for the trek up to Nar Phu, we can look
straight up at nearby Annapurna II - a stunning sight convincing
us that we are deep in the Himalayan mountains! Many of the
villagers are the from Nar Phu valley; this is the gateway to
their region. Less than an hour brings us to Chame, the local
administrative center of Manang, and a large village packed
with small shops and tea-houses, an army post and a large school.
We bed down here for the evening.
Day 22 - Trek to Pisang
It's a beautiful walk from Chame to Pisang, through woods with
a few small ascents and wonderful views of the peaks soaring
above us. We only have a five hour day, so we'll have the afternoon
in Pisang to explore the village with it's Tibetan mani stones
and gompa, perhaps taking a walk up to Upper Pisang for amazing
views of Annapurna II and Annapurna III. We might stay in Upper
Pisang depending on what we decide to do the next day ...
Day 23 - Trek to Manang
We have two options today, the upper and lower route. The lower
route takes about four hours and follows the main valley on
an easy trail. Kim will need to get to Manang to do emails,
so will lead the lower route trek. Lhakpa or one of the staff
will take anyone who wants to go on the high, more remote trail.
It's a LONG and hard day all the way to
*** Alternate route via Ngawal - the High Route
Today's trail is one of the most scenic along the Annapurna
route; we start the morning with a steep ascent to Upper Pisang,
and another longer and steeper one to Gyaru, an old village
just off the main Annapurna trail, an atmospheric Manangi village.
Another two or three hours brings us to Ngawal; it's not a long
day, but a spectacular one, during which we really feel that
we are heading up into the mountains. Ngawal is a wonderful,
old village of cobbled streets, prayer wheels, decorative water-spouts
and beautiful architecture, obviously a hub of religious activity
in previous times. We check into a tea-housed and enjoy the
afternoon.
After lunch at the New Yak Hotel bakery (one of Kim's favorite's)
it's just a 20-minute walk past a series of unique and colorful
chortens to Manang, at 3500m, a village of 500 or so flat-roofed
houses, the headquarters for the region, and an interesting
village packed with trekkers, bakeries and lodges. Manang is
dominated by high peaks - Annapurna III and Gangapurna tower
over it, and a dramatic icefall sits just across the river.
There is an old gompa on the edge of town, many local teahouses,
and some atmospheric, winding streets in the village leading
out toward the Thorung La. Finally, guest houses, showers, cold
beers! There is a 3 o'clock lecture on altitude by the Himalayan
Rescue Association for anyone interested.
Day 24 - Trek to Tilicho Base Camp
It's a fantastic hike from Manang to the Base Camp of Tilicho
Lake (there is actually a lodge here). We head through Manang
village, cross to the east side of the Marsyangdi River and
then head into the 'interior' of the Annapurna circuit past
several small Manangi villages and a new-ish half-way lodge,
then crossing some sliding sand chutes to Tilicho Base Camp,
a hike of about six hours. Keep your eyes open for blue sheep
as there are large herd in this region. Tilicho Lake is a further
hour and a half walk away ...
Days 25-27 - Trek via Tilicho Lake & Tilicho Pass to
Jomsom
Exploratory! We've scheduled three days to cross the Tilicho
Pass, the first to the High Camp on the Manang side, the second
crossing the pass to the Mustang side and the third reaching
Jomsom, the headquarters of Lower Mustang. Here we will stay
at the Trekkers Inn for the night and meet the Mustang group
tomorrow. Showers, cold beers and internet await ...
*** Our Manaslu group will depart on a flight to Pokhara and
Kathmandu tomorrow.
Day 28 - Trek Kagbeni 2900m
*** Meet the 'Last Nomads of Lo' trekkers & send off the
Manaslu trekkers ...
We are greeted by the sound of jingling horse bells as we head
north to Kagbeni and the Mustangi people pass by with their
pony caravans. After sorting out gear and loading our porters,
we trek up the windy Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni. The wide
trail along a sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views
of the surrounding peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Nilgiri,
and to the south the entire Annapurna Massif. Kagbeni, spectacularly
situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali
Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower
Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang, visible
across the Kali Gandaki riverbed. It is an oasis of green, patchwork
fields in the midst of rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri
looming grandly behind it. This ancient, partially ruined citadel
town provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang,
with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green
fields of barley and its massive, newly-restored brick-red Sayka
gompa, 800 years old. We'll also wander past the ancient, crumbing,
100-room King's Palace. At the police check post at the north
end of the village where a sign reads 'Restricted area, tourists
please do not go beyond this point', we will complete our paperwork
to enter Upper Mustang tomorrow. We'll stay at the New Annapurnas
Lodge for the night, with time to explore the village. Fantastic
views down-valley to Niligiri!
Day 29 - Trek to Tsaile 3060m
After breakfast, we enter the restricted area of Upper Mustang
with our staff and horse caravan in tow. We head high up a trail
of scree to a ridge crest, which affords us wonderful views
of the patchwork of Kagbeni and Niligiri down the valley. We
continue trekking on the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, high
up on the plateaus above the river-bed, all the time with magnificent
views from all sides. The village of Tiri Gaon sits on the west
bank of the river. We head north past the red, white and black
chortens to the fortress-like Gurung village of Tangbe (3030m),
a labyrinth of narrow alleys amongst white-washed houses, fields
of buckwheat, barley, wheat and apple orchards, unique in Mustang
with its moat-like drainage system. Tangbe is split into two
sections, the ruins of its ancient dzong (fortress) in the upper
section. There is a small, local tea-house here where we'll
stop in for a break as it's taken us about three hours to reach
the village. Nilgiri, which dominates the southern skyline at
Kagbeni, continues to loom massively at the foot of the valley.
An hour and a half past Tangbe we reach Chhusang village (2950m)
and a naturally-formed tunnel through which the Kali Gandaki
flows. There is a salt mine two hours from Chhusang, and fortified
Tetang village just up the same valley; the salt trade was of
utmost importance to Mustang in years past, and much of the
wealth of the villages came from this trade. Across the Kali
Gandaki , high up in the dramatic, fluted rock face, are clusters
of ancient caves, their origins lost in antiquity.
*** Of these caves, the historian Gucci believes that they were
the homes of the earliest Lo-pas, later used by hermit-monks
as retreats. (As Tibetans in the western part of Tibet lived
in similar caves until recently). Later anthropologists believe
that the caves were the Neolithic sites of early man form a
time when there was much more water, large forests and plentiful
game to hunt.
Across the Narsing Khola, crossed by rock-hopping, is the small
village of Chhomnang, which we wind our way through, passing
the archery field at the end of the village. We head down to
the rocky Kali Gandaki River bed where we might find saligrams
from the Jurassic period (160 million years old) which were
embedded in sediment of the sea floor. We soon cross the river
on log bridges to the trail leading to Tsaile, which looms high
above us on the plateau. There is also a new bridge crossing
the Kali Gandaki, and a new trail leading to it to avoid the
river bed. It's a very steep climb up a rocky gully to Tsaile,
a lively village with several guest houses and extensive wheat
and barley fields, where we set up camp for the night at the
top of the village in the yard of a converted horse stable.
We'll get you set up in your Mountain Hardwear and Big Agnes
tents, set up Kamzang-style dining tent and introduce you to
our camp routine. Chai is brewing, and we'll have our first
cups of hot tea as we watch the village life unfold around us.
*** The culture from Tsaile north becomes more Tibetan; sheep
horns adorn the houses, and there are protective amulets in
the shape of a cross on the walls of the houses, similar to
what we find in the old Tibetan villages in Ladakh and Zanskar.
These 'zor' do what the look like they might do, capture evil
spirits in their web and protect the inhabitants of the household,
and date from the pre-Buddhist Bon religion.
Day 30 - Trek to Shyangboche 3765m
After a good breakfast and freshly brewed coffee, we hit the
trail, ascending steeply to a ridge above Tsaile. The scenery
is awesome, the classic high altitude desert of the Tibetan
high plateau. Our trail continues to ascend as we trek past
the river valleys leading into the Kali Gandaki River. Soon
we reach a spectacular, steep canyon-side trail leading towards
the Dajori La. Across the canyon, there is a suspension bridge
being built to access the remote village of Ghyakar. The pass,
at 3600 meters, is marked by rock cairns and should take us
2 -3 hours to crest.
Samar is visible just below us; we descend gradually to a group
of chortens on the ridge above the village, soon reaching Samar
(3610m), with its lovely poplar grove, formerly a staging post
for Khampa raids into Tibet. The Annapurnas, although still
dominated by Nilgiri, are visible far to the south.
Passing through Samar, we go through the entrance and exit 'mane'
chorten and descend steeply on a switch-back trail to the Samarkyung
Khola (river) where we soon take the right fork, ascending once
again to the chorten-topped Bhena La, at 3840 meters. We continue
past the seasonal Bhena village along a lovely, high, wooded
trail with wonderful, broad vistas across the canyons, climbing
sharply up to the Beg La, really just a ridge, and past the
two-house seasonal village of Yamda. We eventually reach the
Yamda La, at 3985 meters, and are rewarded with a pass topped
by a large cairn and a tangle of multi-colored Tibetan prayer
flags, called 'lung ta' or wind horses. The views from the top
are spectacular, so we stop for a break to enjoy them!
A steep switch-back leads to the small hamlet of Shyangboche
(3765m), a remote herding outpost with three campsites and lodges,
where we set up camp for the night.
Day 31 - Trek to Dhakmar 3820m
A short climb just after breakfast to the Shyangboche La, where
the trail intersects a wide east-west valley, and it's a quick
descent to the picturesque village of Geling. There is an old
gompa above the village, ancient meditation caves in the eroded
cliffs visible above, a new school and traditional Mustangi
houses surrounded by barley fields. From Geling, the trail climbs
gently to the chorten at the lower end of Chhunggar, where we
intersect the trail from the Shyangboche La, and then on to
a large, colorful chorten at the opposite end of the village.
Once through the hamlet of Zaite, we head up a new, dirt road
to the Nyi La (4000m), about 2 1/2 hours past Geling. We descend
on the new road, often cutting off on switch-backs, keep contouring
around hillsides to the Ghemi La and then descend steeply down
to the large village of Ghemi (3570m), where we stay on the
way back.
Passing all the way through Ghemi, built along the steep edges
of the cliff as many villages in Mustang are, we take a small,
rocky trail down to a bridge crossing the Tangmar Chu (river).
From here, the trail looks across the valley to ochre, blue
and steel-grey cliffs, and leads us past tri-colored chortens
and perhaps the longest and most spectacular mani wall in Nepal,
behind which is the hospital. Looming ahead of us is a cluster
of gigantic, ancient chortens, backed by dramatic, sculpted
cliff-faces, an awesome sight.
We continue along the western route, stopping occasionally for
passing herds of sheep and goats, soon arriving at the small
village of Dhakmar, which is dominated by a dramatic, red canyon
wall with many ancient cave dwellings. Here we set up camp for
the night, another good trekking day! Sunsets against the red
cliffs are worth a look!
Day 32 - Trek to Tsarang 3575m
Another great day in front of us as we head slowly up valley
and cross first ridge of the Mui La (4175m); the views down
the Dhakmar Valley are breath-taking, as is the sight of our
horse cresting the tunnel-like pass. We drop back down and the
climb yet again through high meadows by a meandering, rocky
stream to the true Mui La (4130m). Finally, Lo Ghekar, 'Pure
Virtue of Joy', sitting majestically in the valley below us.
Ghar Gompa is reputed to be one of the oldest gompas in Nepal,
and is connected by legend to Samye Gompa in Tibet, as well
as to the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche. The name means 'house gompa'
after the style of architecture, and it harbors many frescoes
as well as wonderful carved and painted stones.
After lunch on the grassy gompa lawn, we head down the valley,
through the long, scenic village of lower Marang (the upper
village is built on the plateau above), cross a long suspension
bridge over the Tsarang Khola and then trek another hour or
so past fields, now apparently not irrigated, to the fortified
village of Tsarang, perched on the edge of a dramatic canyon,
where we camp for the night at a lovely, grassy campsite called
'Green Camping' next to The Royal Mustang Holiday Inn run by
a relative of the King, Maya Bista, the Palace and Gompa visible
in the near distance. A great spot!
Tsarang is a large village built on top of the Tsarang Khola
canyon, stone walls separating the houses and forming tunnel-like
paths, with willow trees and a new irrigation ditch, many shops,
its own hydro-electric plant and quite a few guest houses. It
is dominated by the gigantic, five-story white Tsarang Dzong,
a Tibetan-styled fortified palace built in 1378, and the large,
ochre-hued Tsarang Gompa, of the Gelugpa school, with the greatest
library in Lo. The dzong and palace have a wonderful, old prayer
room with a gold-printed prayer book and a fascinating array
of statues, thankas and large Buddha paintings that the resident
lama will show you, and the withered 500 year old hand of the
master architect of the palace! Elaborate sand mandalas are
created at the gompa at festival time, and then ceremonially
deposited into the river at the festival's end. Take a walk
through the maze of paths to the dzong and friendly gompa before
dinner, and stop in at one of the many shops for a look. The
local women will be herding their sheep through the narrow,
walled paths as dusk ...
Day 33 - Trek to Lo Monthang 3820m
Leaving Tsarang on a trail leading down and across the Tsarang
Khola, we climb steeply up a rocky trail to a cairn on the opposite
ridge and then follow the Thuling Khola on the new, dirt road
towards Lo. The multi-hued canyons spread themselves impressively
around us, and in the distance we see the huge Sungda Khola.
Once past that landmark, we reach the tiny, green doksa of Sungdala,
where we'll stop for tea and maybe lunch at the one small tea-house.
Continuing along the same trail, the landscape becomes very
Tibetan in character, the high desert plains of the Himalaya.
We start to see snow peaks ahead of us as we near the Lo La
pass, at 3960 meters. The pass leads through a partial tunnel
of rock, and to the right of this are strung Tibetan prayer
flags. Climb to the ridge to the right for wonderful views of
Lo Monthang, aptly named the 'Plain of Aspiration', below us.
The fabled walled city of Lo, with a single entrance through
which only the King, Queen and Kempo (Abbot) are allowed to
ride - all others must walk, to pay their respects to Chenrizig
- is a mythical city. King Jigme Palbar Bista, called 'Lo Gyelbu'
by the Mustangis, still resides at his four-storied palace inside
the city walls; that is, when he's not in Kathmandu. He is an
avid horseman, and keeps his own stable of horses, some of the
best in Mustang. These days, the king plays a somewhat ceremonial
role although he is well loved and respected throughout Mustang.
The present king is the 25th descendent of Ame Pal.
Day 34 - Lo Monthang - Visit the Chosar & Tingkar Valleys
*** We recommend horses for anyone wanting to come along on
this day-trip; others are free to stay and wander the intriguing
streets of Lo. There is an amchi that runs a Tibetan herbal
medicine clinic in town, two schools and even a coffee shop
along with the increasing number of shops to visit.
Leaving Lo along a wide, canyon trail, past dry gullies and
an ancient, ruined fortress, across a bridge and through a cultivated
area, we finally view the cave village of Chosar, with the deep-red
Nyphu Gompa built into the rock face. We'll need to cross two
bridges to arrive at the gompa, at 3760 meters. Plenty of time
for photographs before rounding the chorten-toped bend, where
we get views of Gharphu Gompa on the east banks of the Mustang
Khola. Past the gompa is an incredible cave-dwelling site called
Jhong Cave, which you negotiate by ladders and through small
tunnels, very interesting and reputed to be 2500 years old.
In front of us, a range of spectacular snow-peaks marks the
border with Tibet, and around us gurgling streams and green
meadows line our trail. If we take the long loop, we can stop
at Nyamdo Gompa, ride over a small pass and then head back down
the western valley to Lo.
Day 35 - Trek to Mid-Camp/Sam Dzong
Sadly, we must leave magical Lo, but new adventures await us
on our route south. Back out the gates of Lo, and up to the
Lo La pass where we have one last glimpse back down to this
mythic, walled city. Back down the main trail for a few minutes
until we see the sign marking the intersection to Dhi &
Yara, and then we veer left (east) off the trail and head to
Dhi along the eastern, winter route. We follow the trail along
the western side of the Mustang Khola, contouring around tiers
of high, arid slopes, a spectacular walk high up in the expansive,
colorful canyons and gorges. Once over what we called the Dhi
La (4090m), the really interesting trail begins; heading straight
down a narrow, sandy trail, we reach the intersection to Tsarang,
but continue straight down a steep, dramatic trails towards
Dhi, eventually visible as a green swath far below us, with
Yara and Ghara in the distance. Soon, we reach the windy village
of Dhi. Take a quick walk through this little-touristed village
for a taste of old Mustangi life.
*** More details to come ...
Day 36 - Trek to Chuchu Gompa
*** This is the exploratory section, where we spend five exciting
days exploring the little visited eastern valleys of Mustang,
in search of the last nomads living in the region and the cave-gompa
that Peter Mattheissen features in his book, 'East of Lo Monthang'.
The nomads live in the shadow of Dhaulagiri on the high plateaus,
living as they have existed for centuries in their yak-hair
tents, herding their pashm goats and sheep. Chuchu Gompa is
a remote cave-gompa filled with exquisite and ancient Tibetan
Buddhist murals, taken care of by a lone monk from Yara village.
The route to Chuchu Gompa is rarely used by Westerners but is
what we are sure to be Matheissen's un-named caves. This will
be an exciting day ...
Day 37 - Trek to Nomad Camp
Another remote and exploratory day during which, at the end
of the day, we should reach the nomads living their traditional
Tibetan Buddhist nomadic lives. There are reputed to be only
two nomadic families left in Mustang, our 'last nomads'. It
will be interesting to contrast how these nomads live as compared
to their neighbors in Tibet and Ladakh. We will look for a good
camp near the nomads (if and when we find them).
Day 38 - Trek to Chuchu Valley Camp
We retrace our steps back to the Chuchu valley, camping en route
...
Day 39 - Trek to Yara 3610m
Veering off our nomadic route, we intersect the trail to Yara,
Dhi and Luri Gompa. We camp for the night in the courtyard of
a local guest-house in Yara, a bustling campsite full of Mustangi
life.
*** More details to come
Day 40 - Yara (Daytrip to Luri Gompa)
Descending back to the Puyang Khola on a narrow, tunneling trail,
we head further east, keeping below the village of Ghara; to
the left are fantastic, sculpted canyons with the remains of
a network of ancient caves, now eroded enough to be inaccessible.
There is a newly discovered group of six cave dwellings nearby,
the 15th century Tashi Kumbum, with incredible ancient murals
and a large exquisitely painted chorten which perhaps the key-keeper,
who is fortunately the owner of our campsite, can show us. Gary
McCue, who went there over fifteen years ago, wrote that the
approach is very difficult/dangerous although though only an
hour from Yara. We discovered last year that our lodge owner
was actually the one who discovered the ancient Tashi Kumbum,
and then went there with Gary McCue. Exiting stuff and really
one of the most amazing works of Buddhist art I have ever seen.
We will visit this cave either before reaching Luri Gompa.
It takes us approximately another one and a half hours to reach
the fabled Luri Gompa of the Kagyupa sect and its complex of
caves, some of which are accessible. There is a small gompa
in the lower section, and the teacher, kids in tow, led us up
to the upper prayer-room and the famous fifteenth century 'Kabum
Stupa' painted with wonderful murals of the Kagyupa saints Tilopa,
Naropa and Marpa.
The Luri caves are filled with wonderful, 'Newari-style' (Gary
McCue) Buddhist frescos and large, intricately painted chortens.
Historians estimate them to be from the 13th or 14th century,
and linked to the Tashi Kumbum caves, one of a group of connected
cave dwellings throughout this particular region. Unfortunately,
or fortunately, most have been rendered inaccessible due to
the intense erosion in Mustang, so will remain hidden throughout
history.
On the way back, we take the high trail through the interesting
village of Ghara, surrounded by terraced fields, before reaching
Yara again.
Day 41 - Trek to Ghemi 3570m
Leaving Yara, we trek past the incredible fluted cliffs embedded
with caves and the saligram-filled river valley, narrowing as
we get closer to the Kali Gandaki, to the village of Dhi, just
past Surkhang village which we pass on the right of the valley.
It's a fantastic day of trekking through the spectacular Kali
Gandaki gorge; leaving Dhi through the southern end of the village,
we trek along the sandy, rocky riverbed, the sides of the canyons
soaring above us, the rocks forming strange sculptures. We follow
a small, locally-used riverside trail for a few hours, and start
to climb when we reach a chorten and sign pointing us towards
Tsarang and Ghemi. It's a steep switchback up to an old, grey
chorten perched on a ridge, from where we have expansive views
up and down the Kali Gandaki valley, and after a rest we keep
climbing until we reach a new trail being built high above us.
Heading south, we walk along the large, sandy trail for a while,
with Tsarang visible to our north. We crest the Tsarang La (3870m),
and then head back down towards Ghemi, passing by the huge chortens
and mani walls en route. Again over the small bridge over the
Ghemi Khola, and then up the small, steep trail to Ghemi, where
we pass through the village to our beautiful, green campsite
in the upper reaches of Ghemi, Kelsang Nyima's Lo-Ghami Guest
House.
Ghemi is a sprawling village of white-washed houses and terraced
fields, with a gompa in the process of restoration and a red
nunnery at the far end of the village, fields of billowing buckwheat
glowing in the evening sun. Take a walk through the village
in the late afternoon when it's most lively!
Day 42 - Trek to Samar 3600m
We head back south, retracing our path over the Ghemi La and
Nyi La passes, and then continue on via a different route through
Zaite, Chhunggar and Tamagaon to reach the Syangboche La at
4000 meters, and then Syangboche village two hundred meters
below.
Once below Syangboche, we veer off to the left and descend into
the valley, past seasonal doksas and shepherds herding their
flocks of sheep and goats, on the eastern route to Samar via
the important Chungsi Caves. En route, we see many nests of
Himalayan Griffins high up in the cliff-faces, noticeable from
their white below them (vulture droppings), and will see these
majestic birds with their three meter wing-spans circling high
above us. It should take us about an hour to reach the Chungsi
Caves, one of the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche's meditation caves.
Up a series of rock steps to the entrance, and inside are fantastic
'rangjung' or self-created Tibetan Buddhist sculptures, chortens
and others Buddhist relics.
We've now got a steep but spectacular walk in front of us as
we head towards Samar, which means 'red earth' in Mustangi..
We climb high up into an incredible, vast canyon, with wonderful,
expansive views the entire time, and reach the Chungsi La (3810m)
in a few hours. Then down, again steeply, to the Jhuwa and Samarkhung
Kholas, and back up the switch-backing trail to the entrance
chorten of Samar. A good day's trekking! Camp is in a lovely,
shaded spot at the far end of the village called Hotel Annapurna,
owned by Namgyal Gurung; it has a welcoming tea-house in the
lower section where we'll stop in for a cup of salt-butter tea
...
Relax, have a wash in the cold stream next at the campsite,
and enjoy the afternoon and sunset over the Himalayan peaks
in this charming village, which translates as 'red earth'.
Day 43 - Trek to Tetang 3000m
It's an easy hike up the Dajori La, and a long, wonderful descent
along our cliff-side canyon trail back to Tsaile and then along
the riverbed to Chhomnang. We'll now head to Tetang, an incredible,
fortified village on the way to the salt mine, for a bit of
exploration and photography. Tetang is a wonderfully situated
village, with massive houses peppered with small holes, for
what purpose we still haven't discovered. Perhaps as holds for
scaffolding? The ruins of an ancient, crumbling dzong stand
majestically on a crest at the northern end of the village.
Earlier, we witnessed a 'village women's' council' over the
use and shortage of water, a heated discussion!
We'll camp just outside of camp, at a windy campsite next to
a local dwelling, and have the afternoon to explore fortified
Tetang.
Day 44 - Trek to Muktinath
Taking the remote route back to Muktinath, we trek through Tetang
village and climb the 4075 meter Gyu La, a trek of about two
hours or more, for views down to Lower Mustang, and then descend
a long, contouring trail heading to Muktinath where we camp
for the night. We may choose to not stay right in Muktinath
itself and to stay in a quieter village instead.
Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and
Hindus situated in a tranquil grove of trees, and contains a
wall of 108 waterspouts in the shape of cows heads spouting
sacred water, the Jwala Mai temple with a perpetual spouting
flame and the pagoda-styled Vishnu Mandir, all of which make
up the auspicious combination of earth, fire and water. We stay
just five minutes down the trail from Muktinath at Ranipauwa.
Day 45 - Trek to Jomsom
After breakfast, we just have a gentle walk back down the Kali
Gandaki to Jomsom. Along the way, beautiful textiles are woven
by hand looms in the traditional style, and are readily available
for sale by eager Mustangi women. Yak tails to adorn your horses
or dust your house also for sale. We arrive in Jomsom along
a long, cobbled trail in time for lunch, with the afternoon
free to wander, wash and shop. We'll celebrate our trek through
'forbidden' Mustang with a few cold beers at the Trekker's Inn
in the evening!
Day 46 - Fly to Pokhara & Kathmandu
Sadly, it's time to leave the magical Kingdom of Mustang and
head back to Kathmandu. We board an early morning mountain flight
from Jomsom, switching planes in Pokhara for a Kathmandu flight,
and hopefully arrive back at the Kathmandu Guest House in time
for lunch. Rooms are booked, showers are hot and laundry can
be dropped off! We'll meet for dinner later, perhaps heading
to Fire & Ice for real Italian pizzas and a few glasses
of warming red wine ...
Day 47 - In Kathmandu
Back in bustling, colorful Kathmandu! We have scheduled an extra
day in Kathmandu in case our flight from Jomsom or Pokhara is
delayed. If not, everyone is free to enjoy our favorite Asian
city, and we'll meet again for dinner and drinks in the evening.
Day 48 - Depart from Kathmandu International Airport.
Early breakfast at the hotel and then drive to the airport to
board the flight. Your escort from Raven Tours and Treks will
assist you with exit formalities and bid you farewell.
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Time in Nepal:
